Step One: Get Back In; Step Two: Continue the Progress

Kelly's Surf Words
3 min readAug 11, 2024
First day back. My photo July 2024.

This summer has been rough. I got bronchitis through May and June. I am currently getting past the remains of covid. My mental health hasn’t been that great either. As a result of all these things, it has made it hard to find the time or feel up to swimming at all.

But briefly at the start of July, I took the first step to get back in.

It wasn’t ideal condition. High tide was coming in and the surf was mushy at best. I was fine with that. I brought one of my handboards and fins. But walking on the sand was challenging: my left knee was protesting walking over uneven ground. My feet protested too. I walk barefoot around the house and mostly wear flip flops or minimal shoes so it’s not like I’m unuse to it. My feet were also protesting with the uneven ground (especially my heels). But despite all this, I wasn’t going to turn back.

There was some anxiety standing on the shore and watching the waves, trying to determine if there were any rip currents. I made the decision to just go in barefoot with the board and just get the feel of the waves again after four years. Wading past the shore break and letting my body get used to the temperature water was a shock to the system. As I ventured out, my anxiety skyrocketed. My brain worked overtime trying to discern everything. Did I just step on something

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